The Salcantay Trek to Machu Picchu, 5 days / 4 nights.

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Perú its a country with a big variety of landscapes, weathers, cultures and things to do. The most famous site in this country its Machu Picchu citadel, in Cusco. There are many ways to go to this place, the easiest its by train and the most touristy is the Inca Trek. But there are another trails to get to this world wonder, one of the most beautiful trails its the Salcantay Trek.

Salcantay Mountain, 6271 mts. high

The Salcantay trek its a 5 day/4 night trekking through mountains and forests, landscapes are amazing and its harder than the Inca Trek. You walk next to the Salcantay white caped mountain that has about 6271 meters high. You need to have some experience to do this trek or do some training before to be fit, there are long walking days, high altitude and tough roads.

Day 1.
We started in Cusco, the bus pick up us at 5.00 am and took the road to  Mollepata (2 hrs. journey) town, where we have some breakfast, Mollepata is located at 2900 meters over sea level (masl). 

We took a day pack and 5 kilos bag each that will be carried by horse. Our group had 13 people, 2 tour guides and a guy in charge of the horses. 

The walk wasnt difficult at the beginning, the weather was nice and hot. We took the dirty road out of Mollepata, we could see the mountains far away and some horses and people on the road, after 4 hours we had lunch at Sayllapata and the we continue walking through dirty roads and mountains, the road started to be steep and difficult, our team was tired but was amazing to see, from the road, two white caped mountains, Humantay (5900 mts. high) and far away the Salcantay with 6271 meters high.

We walked 8 hours and about 19 Km. on the first day, the last bit was harder  because was more steep, we camp at Soraypampa, at 3900 masl.  The campsite was in a flat area, we could see the white caped mountains around us, was a cold afternoon and we had some coffee and a great dinner, was a hard day for some people and we were looking forward for the next day, at night we could see the sky full of stars, was really beautiful. This was a great training for the second day, the hardest, we will walk until 4600 meters above sea level and see the Salcantay mountain.

Day 2.

The second day of the Salcantay Trek its the hardest one, we walked about 21 Km.  in about 10 hours, was cold, steep, tough, beautiful and a great challenge.

We woke up at 05.00 am, the night was really cold but the sky was amazing, full of stars and we were sorounded by white caped mountains. We packed everything and had a big breakfast and bad coffee, after get ready we started the trek at about 06.00 am. 

The first bit wasnt that difficult but very cold, I will recommend to take gloves, a good hat, warm clothes and a day pack to put everything after get warmer.

Then the road started to be steeper, the view was amazing and the road started to be in a endless zig zag, some people got tired and some 

guys had to get a horse. Our team did very well, we walked in a good rithm and didnt rest too much, this is a good advice, just walk as far as you can and dont rest every 15 min. If you want to rest dont take a seat, just stand up, breathe and enjoy the landscape.

After 2 hours of walking in zig zag on the steep road we got to a flat bit and then to a Soyrococha lake, located at 4300 mts. high. We were sorounded by mountains, snow, ice and rocks,very nice. We got to Soyrococha lake at about 09.15, its just a little lake with a nice view of the snow caped mountains. We had our snack and a break there, people were tired but happy because the great experience. I dont recommend any tablet for the altitude sickness, its better to just go slow and aclimatize yourself to the lack of oxigen.

We started walking again, the next section was steeper and we were at 4300 mts. altitude, our team was feeling tired but looking forward for the challenge. we walked about 2 hours to the highest point of the trek , the Abra Salcantay,  located at 4600 mts. high.

We had a rest and enjoyed the view, we had Salcantay mountain (6271 mts. high) just in front of us and was an amazing experience, then we did a 10 min. walk to a viewpoint to see  a beautiful lake and the mountains. After that we started walking down, we walked 2 hours more, the road was full of rocks but not very steep. We got to a flat area and had some lunch and a rest. 

After a siesta we started walking again, we hiked about 3 hours more, the landscape was different, we got into the forest area and we could see the white caped mountains from far away. The road was less rocky but full of dust and horses, was easy but long as we were allready tired. After 2 hours we got to our campsite , called Challway, located at 2900 masl. Was warmer than the last campsite and sorounded by forests, there was a shop to but water and beer, we had some coffee and then some dinner. Along all this trek you will find little shops where the locals sale water and snacks and a few groups of tourists as well. Our guide told us about the next day hike and we were looking forward for it.

Day 3.

The third day of the trek started in Challway campsite, located at 2900 mts. altitude, the weather was warmer that the last couple of days and the landscape was the cloud forest. We will walk 13 Km. in 4 hours to a village called Playa, have lunch there and then walk to Santa Teresa town.

The walk is nice, warm but sometimes dusty, we walked next to Salcantay river and could saw the white caped mountains far away, even if we were already in the forest, there were some waterfalls and local villages on the way.

We got to Playa for lunch and we had the option to walk 19 Km more or take the 10 min. bus to Santa Taresa,  the group was tired and choose to take the bus, maybe worth it as the road was dusty and full of mini buses. We got to Santa Taresa in the late afternoon and went to our campsite. Santa Teresa its a very little town, close to the hot springs and the hodroelectrica train station. After we set our campsite we took the mini bus to the hot springs, we spent a couple of hours there just to relax, really nice cheap hot springs. After that we went back to the campsite, had dinner and a few beers next to the fire.

Day 4.

Next day we woke up early and took the 10 min. bus to Hidroelectrica train station, over there we start walking for about 3 hours to Aguas Calientes, we walked next to the railway, a very nice walk next to Vilcanota river, we saw the forest and some birds around, we could see Machu Picchu far away and then we got to Aguas Calientes in the afternoon, was a nice sunny day, great walk and a great experience, this was the alternative way to get to Machu Picchu.

Day 5.

We spent the night in Aguas Calientes and next day we walked up to Machu Picchu, we had a great day and took the train back to Cusco in the afternoon.

Salcantay trek its an amazing adventure, not for beginners or people who dont enjoy a good walk, you need to be on shape and be ready for long days, cold nights and amazing landscapes. Its a great adventure I would recommend to all the people who loves treking and mountains. A great experience.

Trip to the Amazonas River.

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The Amazonas River and Pacaya Samiria National Reserve.

 This trip started in Yurimaguas town, in the Peruvian Jungle, we took a boat to  Pacaya Samiria National Reserve  and spent a few days exploring the amazon rainforest, then we salied along the Amazonas River until get to Iquitos city. It was a great adventure.

 Amazonas river is the greatest river in the world, it starts in the peruvian andes (Arequipa), at the glacier of the snowcapped mountain called Mismi and ends in the Atlantic Ocean, in Brasil. It has about 6800 Km. long and is the longest river in the world, is the river that carries the most volume of water, in rainy season it can reach about 48 Km. wide. The Amazon rainforest covers 40% of South America and has a great biodiversity, it´s a World Natural Wonder and we have to protect it.

 This trip started in Yurimaguas town, to get there you need to take a flight from Lima to Tarapoto city and then a local bus to Yurimaguas, located in the amazon rainforest. 

Yurimaguas is next to Huallaga river, a tributary of Marañón river (one of the main tributaries of Amazonas river). Here we bought all our equipment, rubber boots, mosquito nets, water and hammocks to sleep in the boat. We took a boat called Eduardo I, our destination was Lagunas, a little jungle village next to Pacaya Samiria National Reserve, beside the Amazonas river. This is the biggest National Reserve in Perú and is part of the Amazon basin. The plan was to get into Pacaya Samiria in our caones for 7 days, camping (just with mosquito nets), fishing and looking for wildlife.

I asked at the hotel about Lagunas and Pacaya Samiria, the guys there recommended a local guy called ¨Chileno¨, his main job was to sale ice cream in the main square but he also has some friends in Lagunas who can take us to Pacaya Samiria. So I hired Chileno to come with us, we was a dodgy cool guy who knows everything, I like that.

 I was traveling with 2 british students, very nice guys, next morning we had a good breakfast and went to the port, our boat was big, dirty and smelly, with 3 levels, the first one with cows, pigs etc, the second and third level were full of locals, some of them with animals like chickens, everybody sleeps in hammocks, the meals were included in the price and were just ok, there was a shop in the boat to sale rum, water, snacks etc. It was cheap and good.

  

 Our boat supposed to take just 10 hours from Yurimaguas to Pacaya Samiria, but because the river was really shallow we got stucked for a few hours, so took us almost 1 day to get to Lagunas. We slept in the hommocks, had a few beers with the locals and enjoy the view of the river and the local villages, at night some caimans tried to enter to the boat, so we all had to make them go away with some poles ! When we get there some locals were waiting for us in the port, we walked to town and met the locals, did some shopping (food and water) and spend the night in a little hostel called Farmacia, it was the second floor of the local pharmacy, the owner was called Don Marciano, not bad. Chileno helped us to hire the local guides and get all what we need for the trip.

Next day we started the excursion, we were just 5 people, the 2 students, me and our 2 local guides, we entered to the National Reserve with 2 canoes, mosquito nets, rubber boots, some bad coffee , pasta and fishing lines,  hooks and bate to catch our meals.

 We paddled 3 days down the streams of this National Reserve, watching spider monkeys, tarantulas, sloths, turtles, caymans, anacondas and pink dolphins, we fished some piranhas for lunch and mixed it with pasta or rice, sometimes we just made a fire and talked with our local guides, they told us some stories about the jungle and the local communities where they came from. It was really warm, almost 40 degrees every day, it was September of 2004 so didnt rain too much. The locals were really good guides, they know where were the best places to camp and to hike into the jungle, we saw different kind of monkeys very close to us all the time, loads of sloths, macaws and turtles, there were no more tourists, was  just us and the nature.

 After 3 days going down stream in the jungle, camping and hiking we got to a little lake , spent the night there and next morning we started the journey back to Lagunas going upstream for 4 days , that was a hard work, the 2 students were tired but they did very well, the guides and me paddled almost all the way back but we let the students try sometimes. After 4 days and 3 nights in canoes and camping we got back to Lagunas, that was a great experience and Im sure I will do it again.

 We stayed one more night in Lagunas at Don Marciano´s place, the local guides told us they have a guides organization and they were trying to get more tourists, I think this way of travel,  camping,  canoes, pharmacy hotel and dirty boats full of amazing crazy locals is the best way to travel around. I dont like tours, it´s better just to travel.

 Next day we were looking for a boat to continue travelling to Iquitos. The locals told us that the boat wasn´t coming so we had to wait all night in the port until a boat shows up, so we put our hammocks at the port and got some rum and cards and wait. The boat arrives at 3 am. so we jumped in and continue our trip, it wasn´t a big boat, but was ok. We sailed for 2 days along Marañon river, this river joins Ucayali river in the Amazonas, it is amazing when you enter to the Amazonas river, the landscape, the jungle, some islands, wildlife, it´s a huge river. At night there were some waves coming against our boat, so people came to the front of the boat to see the waves and drink rum, we had a big party there, we got to Iquitos at night, after 2 days sailing and sleeping in hammocks, was a great experience, the 2 students were really happy, we had a great experience.

 We got to Iquitos, the big city in the jungle, we had a couple of free days there and some cold beers. Was a great adventure. 

We flew to Lima a few days later, I think I will do that trip again, maybe next year.

   

The Inca Trek to Machu Picchu.

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The Inca Trek to Machu Picchu (Cusco, Perú) is one of the most amazing trekkings in South America, it takes 4 days and 3 nights and it has 42 Km. in total. It starts at Km.82, this place is 2 hours from Ollantaytambo. The trail  goes from 3000 masl. too 4200 masl. (the highest point) and then down to 2400 masl. at  Machu Picchu. The Inca Trek goes trought different kind of landscapes and weather, you will walk through the mountains and the cloud forest, at the end you will see Machu Picchu, an amazing place. You need to be on shape to do this trek because  some stages are steep and also because the altitude

You need to book this trekking a few months in advance and go with a good tour operator, I can recommend you some good tour companys if you want.

El Camino Inca a Machu (Cusco, Perú) es una de las rutas de trekking mas impresionantes de Sudamérica, toma 4 días y 3 noches y tiene 42 Km. en total. Comienza en el Km. 82, este lugar está a  2 horas de Ollantaytambo, el camino va desde 3000 a 4200 msnm. (el punto más alto) y luego baja a 2400 msnm. en Machu Picchu. El Camino Inca pasa por  diferentes paisajes y climas, recorre montañas y el bosque nuboso y al final llega a Machu Pichu, un lugar increible y muy especial. Hay que estar en forma para hacer este camino, hay partes muy empinadas y la altura le puede afectar.

Para hacer el Camino Inca se debe hacer la reserva con meses de anticipación e ir con un tour operador local, si desea le puedo recomendar muy buenos tour operadores.

Arriving to Machu Picchu/ Llegando a Machu Picchu

Day 1. / Dia 1

The first day starts at Km. 82, this is an easy hike, you will hike for 6 1/2 hours from Km. 82 (2750 masl.) to Wayllabamba campsite (3000 masl.) , on the way you will see Llactapata Inca ruins (2600 masl.) weather is warm here, some sections are steep, but is not a difficult stage.  

El primer dia comienza en el Km. 82, es una caminata sencilla, son 6 horas en total desde el Km. 82 (2750 msnm.) hasta el campamento en Wayllabamba (3000 msnm.), en el camino se podrá observar las ruinas de Llactapata, el clima es cálido y hay algunas secciones empinadas, pero no es una etapa difícil.  

Km 82. the start of the trek

Porters Team / Equipo de Porteadores

View from the campsite/ Vista desde el campamento

Day 2 / Día 2.

We start very early today, this is the hardest day but is also amazing because the landscapes and the challenge, is a 6 hour hike from the campsite at Wayllabamba (3000 masl.) to Warmiwañusca (Dead Woman pass) at 4200 masl. the highest , is steep and hard ! Then 2 hours more going downhill until the campsite at Pacaymayo 3600 masl.,  7/8 hours in total, weather is very cold at night, between 0 to 5 degrees celcius.

El día de hoy comenzamos muy temprano, es el día más difícil pero es increible por los paisajes y el reto mismo, son 6 horas de caminata desde el campamento en Wayllabamba (3000 msnm.) a Warmiwañusca, el paso más alto a 4200 msnm. De ahi són 2 horas de bajada hasta el campamento en Pacaymayo a 3600 msnm. En total 7/8 horas, el clima es bastante frio por la noche, de 0 a 5 grados celcius. 

 

Hiking to Death Woman Pass / Caminando hacia Warmiwañusca

The Summit, at 4200 masl. / La cima a 4200 msnm

Coffee after a good day / Un cafe luego de un buen día

Day 3. / Día 3.

Today is the longest day of the trek, you will hike from the high mountains to the  cloud forest, full of flora and fauna. Early start and then you will hike for 1 hour to the second highest pass of the trek, this is at 3900 masl, you can rest there and the continue hiking until Runcuracay ruins (3700 masl), after see the ruins you will hike 2 hours more to Sayacmarca ruins (3560 masl). After that you will stop for lunch and then walk 2 hours more to Phuyupatamarca ruins (3640 masl), from there you will walk downhill 3 hours more until the campsite at Wiñaywayna located at 2644 masl. This downhill walk is long and full of little steps, the weather is humid and warm, is recommended to use walking poles here and be careful to dont fall down. Is about 8 to 10 hours hike in total today. In Wiñaywayna there are clean toilets and showers, but will have to pay for it and rent a towel and soap. You can also visit Wiñaywayna ruins, this is just next to the campsite.

El día más largo del camino, el trekking va desde las montañas hasta el bosque nuboso, lleno de flora y fauna, el trekking comienza temprano por la mañana caminando por 1 hora hasta el segundo paso más alto a 3900 msnm., aqui puede descansar y luego continuar hasta las ruinas Incas de Runcuracay, a 3700 msnm, luego se continua por 2 horas más hasta las ruinas de Sayacmarca a 3560 msnm. Luego de visitar las ruinas se sigue caminando hasta el lugar para el almuerzo y de ahi seguir por 2 horas más hasta las ruinas de Phuyupatamarca a 3640 msnm. Luego se camina alrededor de 3 horas en bajada hasta el campamento en Wiñaywayna, a 2644 msnm. Esta última seccion es larga y con muchas escaleras muy pequeñas, el clima es humedo y calido, es recomendable llevar bastones para caminar y tener cuidado de no caerse. Son entre 8 y 10 horas de caminata en total. En Wañaywayna hay baños y duchas, se debe pagar y rentar por una toalla y jabón, si lo desea puede visitar las ruinas de Wiñaywayna, ubicadas al lado del campamento.

Sayacmarca ruins / Ruinas de Sayacmarca

Our porters team / Nuestro equipo de porteadores

Cloud Forest / Bosque Nuboso

Wiñaywuayna ruins / Ruinas de Wiñaywuayna

Day 4 / Dia 4.

Today you will have to wake up really early, about 3.30 am. to start walking for just 2 hours to the Intipunku or Sungate, you have to get here about 6.00 am. to see the sunrise in Machu Picchu, then continue walking a few minutes more to the ruins. Your local guide will do a guided tour here.

Machu Picchu is located at 2400 masl. and is next to Aguas Calientes town, where the train station is located. After explore the citadel you can take the bus to Aguas Calientes and have lunch or visit the local market and then take the train back to Cusco (4 hrs.), book this train in advance, the Inca Trek your operator can do it for you when you book the tour.

El día de hoy hay que levantarse temprano, como a las 3.30 am, para comenzar a caminar por unas 2 horas hasta el Intipunku, o Puerta del Sol, desde ahi se puede apreciar el amanecer en Machu Picchu, luego continuar caminando por algunos minutos mas hasta las ruinas. Su guía local realizará un tour guiado por la ciudadela. Machu Picchu está a 2400 msnm. y está al lado del pueblo de Aguas Calientes, donde se encuentra la estación de tren. Luego de explorar la ciudad puede tomar el bus a Aguas calientes, almorzar, revisar su email, ir al cajero o visitar el mercado local y de ahi tomar el tren de vuelta al Cusco (4 hrs.), reserve este tren con anticipación, el tour operador puede hacerlo al reservar el tour. 

View from the Sun Gate / Vista desde la Puerta del Sol

Sunrise in Machu Picchu / Amanecer en Machu Picchu

End of the Inca Trek / Fin del Camino Inca

Huayna Picchu Mountain / Montaña Huayna Picchu.

A good option, if you are not tired, is to hike Huayna Picchu Mountain, this is huge mountain behind the ruins (see photo, easy to find), from the top it has an amazing view of all the citadel, only 400 people per day are allowed to hike it, your guide can help you the get on time, it takes 45 minutes to hike it and about 30 min. to come down. There is a path and some steps so is not dangerous and the view is awesome but there are always lots of tourists.

Una buena opcion, si no está cansado,  es trepar la Montaña Huayna Picchu, esta es la montaña detras de las ruinas (la ves en la foto, fácil), desde la cima se tiene una vista espectacular de la ciudadela, solo 400 personas al día están permitidas para subir, su guía local le puede ayudar a llegar a tiempo. Toma alrededor de 45 minutos el subir y 30 min. par abajar y no es peligroso ya que hay un camino y algunas escaleras, la vista es increible pero siempre hay muchos turistas.    

View from Hayna Picchu / Vista desde el Huayna Picchu

La Montaña Machu Picchu / Machu Picchu Mountain.

This is another good option, if you already saw the ruins and want to trek more I will recommend to hike Machu Picchu mountain, is bigger than Huayna Picchu and harder to hike but the view is amazing. Takes 1.45 hours to hike it and about 1 hour  to come down, so be carfeul with the time because you can lose your train.

Esta es otra buena opción, si ya vio las ruinas y desea caminar y subir mas le puedo recomendar subir la montaña Machu Picchu, es más grande que Huayna Picchu y mas difícil de subir pero la vista es increible. Toma 1.45 horas horas para subir  y 1 hora para bajar asi que tenga cuidado con el tiempo ya que puede perder su tren.

Machu Picchu Mountain / Montaña Machu Picchu

View from Machu Picchu Mountain / Vista desde la Montaña Machu Picchu