Maras and Moray, let´s see something different!

A different way to see the Sacred Valley of Cusco (if you are tired of Inca ruins) is to travel 50 K to the north of this city and visit Maras and Moray towns. Moray is famous for the circular terraces where the Incas studied the effect of the different kind of weather on their crops. They did experiments with seeds using the different weather conditions in every terrace to develop new products. Some locals told me they found soil that doesnt belong to that area and were used to test different kind of seeds. In Moray there are 4 circular terraces the biggest one has about 30 meters deep. 

Maras is a little town, 20 min. from Moray (driving through a dirty road), here you can find the salt ponds the salt comes from the evaporated salty water from subterranean streams. The locals sale this salt to all the country. The ponds belong to the local people, a farmer can have 20 or 30 ponds and sale the salt in the local market, they have different kinds of salt and products made of it.

On the way from Moray to Maras you can see amazing mountains and local people working on their farms instead of the typical people trying to sale souvenirs to the tourists. 

  

  

Lares Trek to Machu Picchu

One of the most beautiful treks in Perú, it´s a 4 day and 3 night trek on the Peruvian Highlands. Day 1 (11 km. and 4 hr. hike) Early bus journey from Cusco to Calca town, visit the local market and have breakfast. Buy some bread to give to the local kids on the road. Then will go by bus to Ankas Marca to see the archaeological site and then comtinue to Lares town to buy snacks and water. Then you will start the trek from Trapiche village and walk along the mountains, visit local villages and see lakes and white capped mountains. After 4 hr. hike you will get to Sonda, our first campsite, located at 4200 mts. over sea level. Day 2 is the hardest day, you will hike 20 Km. in about 7 1/2 hr. and get the highest point at 4600 mts. high, the campsite is located at 3400 mts. high at Marcacocha. Day 3 is the easiest day, just 10 Km. and 4 hr. walk to Ollantaytambo town and then take the train to Aguas Calientes town (next to Machu Picchu), spend the night in a hostel and next day take the bus to Machu Picchu ruins, you will have a guided tour around the ruins and then come back to Cusco by train. This trek is famous because the amazing landscapes and also because there are not many tourists around, just you and the mountains.

Qhapaq Ñan, the Inca road system.

The Incas  (1438 to 1532 A.D. ) were the biggest civilization in South America , their empire, called Tahuantinsuyo, covered 6 countries, South of Colombia, Ecuador, Perú, Bolivia and the North of Argentina and Chile, the empire was controlled from the capital: Cusco (Perú).

To rule the empire the Incas built a road system called The Qhapac Ñan, it was the biggest transportation system in the continent and went from the South of Colombia to the North of Argentina. The Qhapac Ñan had 2 main roads, both going from North to South, The Royal Road from Quito to Tucuman  (north of Argentina), located along the Andes and had about 5200 Km. and the Road of the Coast with a length of 4000 Km. this was parallel to the Pacific Ocean and was linked to the Royal Road by smaller routes. From this main road there were other smaller ones  to connect with towns and villages in the coast, jungle and mountains.  The Qhapac Ñan had about 40000 Km. of roads along all the empire. This trail system allowed the Incas to control all the civilizations they conquered, It connected towns, agricultural zones, mining areas, sacred temples and administrative centers.

The main purposes of the Qaphac Ñan were: Transportation, trade of resources, military, logistical support and religious.  The Incas sent Chasquis (messengers) to all their territory, used llamas to carry supplies, get tributes from the civilizations that were part of the empire and sent workers and the army using this roads.

Along the route there were places to stop to eat and rest (Tambos), and storages (Qollqas)  with food and supplies. The Wari civilization (500/1000 years before the Incas) built a network of roads in the south and north of Perú, then, the Incas (1438/1532 A.D.) built the Qhapac Ñan to expand and control their empire. In 1532 the Spaniards arrived to Perú and used this roads to go to Cusco and then to Lima. From XIX century until now (republic period) the governments built modern highways and ports, almost all the roads of the Qhapac Ñan were abandoned.

Today only 25% of the network is still visible, the famous Inca Trail to Machu Picchu (Cusco) is the most popular part and connects the Sacred Valley with the sacred city. In Perú the main archaeological sites are: Pachacamac (Lima), Tambo Colorado (Pisco), Sillustani (Puno), Koricancha (Cusco) and Haycan Cieneguilla (Lima), most of them are in good conditions. In Ecuador the most important site is Ingapirca, located in the Cañar area.

The Qhapaq Ñan was declared World Heritage by Unesco on 21/06/2014 and now the governments has to make an effort to rebuilt and protect this roads so the locals can use it. This trail system could be also use for tourism and the money from the entrance fee could be used to  maintain and protect the roads, archaeological  sites and the enviroment.  The Qhapac Ñan has to be protected by the government and people has to learn the history and importance of this trail system.

The Amazon Rainforest.

The Amazon represents 54% of the total rainforest left on earth, with and area of 5500 000 square Km. it covers 8 countries : Brazil, Perú, Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador, Bolivia, Guyana, Suriname and French Guyana, it produces more than 20% of the oxigen of the planet.

The Amazon rainforest has a huge biodiversity with 40 000 species of plants, 2.5 million species of insects, 2200 species of fish, 427 of mammals, 378 od reptiles and 428 species of amphibians.  The most popular animals in this area are Tucans, Jaguars, Anacondas, Macaws, Piranhas, Pink Dolphins and Caimans.

On the 1500, when the Spaniards and Portuguese arrived, there were about 6 to 9 million native people living in this area, by 1900 this number went down to 1000 000 and today there are about 250 000 native people in this area. Some of this tribes have never had contact with the outside world, they live from agriculture and fishing and have a huge knowledge about local medicinal plants and use shamans as doctors, most of the rainforest plants used by the natives have not been studied by modern science.

The main threats for the rainforest come from human activities like gold mining, wood extraction, burning the forest for agriculture, extraction of oil and building highways and settlements.

 The Amazonas River.

Amazonas river born in the peruvian andes at the Mismi mountain at 5170 meters high and flows in the Atlantic Ocean, in Brazil. It has a length: 6437 KM. and a wide of 10 Km to 40 Km in  wet season. The  Amazonas has about 1100 tributaries, the main ones are Marañon, Outumayo and Ucayali in Perú, Negro and Madeira in Brasil. The Amazonas river goes through Brasil, Peru, Colombia but the Amazon basin belongs to 9 nations: Brazil, Peru, Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador, Bolivia, Guyana, Suriname and French Guiana. The river enters the Atlantic Ocean in a broad estuary about 240 kilometres (150 mi) wide.

 The Amazon is the major South American river and the second longest river in the World with approximately 6400 kilometres (4000 miles) – only the Nile, in Africa, is longer, it carries more water than any other river in the world.

Off the beaten track: Yurimaguas, Pacaya Samiria National Reserve, Iquitos.

If you want to go off the beaten track and see the Amazon jungle you can take the route that starts in Yurimaguas town (Amazonas Region, Perú) and take the 10 hr. local boat to Lagunas village, contact some guides and explore Pacaya Samiria National Reserve by canoes, paddle  on the streams, watching the wildlife, fishing piranhas and camping in the bush. This can take 6/7 days inside Pacaya Samiria to explore it well. Then you have to come back to Lagunas village and take the 2 day local boat through Marañon and Amazonas river. You can get where the Amazonas river start and see how  amazing is this river. Arrive to Iquitoso town, spend a few free days to relax and fly back to Lima.

Overlanding: Lima to Nazca.

Distance: 450 KM.

Driving time: 6 hrs. without stops.

Good roads.

A route full of beaches, wildlife, deserts and history.

  

We leave Lima early  and take the Panamericana highway to the south, this highway goes along the beaches. On Km. 45 you will see Punta Hermoza beach, a famous beach for surfing.  Perú has about 3000 Km. of coast with good surfing spots and great sea food.

Along Panamericana highway you will find some good petrol stations and places to stop for a coffee. At Km. 131 is Cerro Azul town, good place for fishing and surfing.

227 Km. south of Lima is Pisco town, this place was distroyed by an earthquake on 2007. After 5 Km. is the turn to Paracas National Reserve. On this area are the Ballestas Islands, you can take a boat tour to this islands and see sea lions, penguins and pelicans, the tour takes about 2 hours on the boat and starts at 08.00 am. and 10.00 am, it cost about 15 USD.

After see Ballestas Islands you can have a coffe and a fish sandwich (traditional local breakfast) on El Chaco pier  and then continue driving. A good option is to visit Paracas National Reserve and see more wildlife or visit La Mina beach, just a few Kms. south from Paracas.

Leaving Paracas you can drive back to Panamericana highway and continue your trip to the south.  After 1 hr. you will get to Ica (69 Km. from Paracas), after a few minutes you will have to turn right on Huacachina sign to get to the desert and sand dunes of Huacachina. 

Huacachina is famous because the oasis and the sand dunes, here you can do sand boarding and a dune buggy excursion.

To continue with your trip to the south you have to go back to Panamericana highway and drive 149 Km. to Nasca, located on Km. 450. This road is in good conditions and goes through the desert.    So better fill up with petrol in Ica. 

Nasca is a town with about 27 000 people and it´s famous because the Nasca Lines, this are drawings on the desert made by the Nasca civilization who lived in this area before the Incas. To see this lines you need to take a small plane and do a 30 min. flight around the desert, there are many travel agencies in town that offers this kind of excursion for about 100 USD + 25 soles tax.

From Nasca you can continue your trip to the south to Puerto Inca Beach (3 hrs. from Nasca) and then to Arequipa city.

   

Overlanding: Cusco to Puno.

Distance: 395 Km.

Driving time: 7 hrs.

Good roads. (only bad roads in Juliaca town).

A route with mountains, small towns, rivers and lakes.

You have to drive from the center of Cusco to La Cultura avenue to go out of the city, the road goes parallel to Urubamba river and it goes through small towns and lakes.

Going out of Cusco you will pass Saylla town, Huarcapay lake (good for birdwatching) Tipón town (here you can visit the Tipón Inca ruins) and Oropesa, famous for their bread. Once you are out of Cusco you can make a stop at Pikillacta pre-inca ruins (30 Km. from Cusco) and then Andahuaylillas colonial town (50 Km. from Cusco).

After pass Andahuaylillas you will see Urcos lake and then go through Urcos town, there is usually a nice street market on the main square.

Aftear leave Urcos you will drive about 70 Km. more to get to Raqchi, an Inca temple built by Inca Pachacutec for their god Wiracocha. This temple is located very close to the road and it´s easy to go and visit. 

Just a few Km. after Raqchi you will get to Sicuani town, one of the main towns on this routes , located at 2 1/2 hrs. from Cusco (146 Km.) . Here you can find gas stations, shops and places to make phone calls (locutorio). Going into Sicuani just go via right on Santa Rosa signs (over the railway lines) and then go again via right to the main road to go out of town. The next big town after this will be Juliaca (about 200 Km )

1 hr. from Sicuani you will get to La Raya, the border between Cusco and Puno, located at 4312 mts. high.

At La Raya you can make a toilet stop, buy some snacks or just take pictures of the Andes. 

From La Raya to Juliaca ( 2 1/2 hr) you will pass small towns like Santa Rosa, Ayaviri (turn right on round about) , Pucara (famous for ceramics and also a good toilet/coffee stop). Then you will get to Juliaca, you have to go through this city and then go out and take the main road to Puno. Roads are really bad here and it´s a very dodgy city as well.

Off the beaten track: From Ayaviri town you can get off the road and go 15 Km. (dirty road) to Tinajani to see the rock formations and then go back to Ayaviri and continue. If you are in a 4WD car you continue and do the route Ayaviri, Tinajani, Tarucan Puyas forest, Lampa town and the get back to the main road to Juliaca.

From Juliaca to Puno it´s just 49 Km. and you will make it in 1 hr. Just get out of Juliaca and take the main road. Getting into Puno you will have a nice view of Titicaca Lake from the top of the mountains, then just go downhill until get to the center.

Off the beaten track: From Juliaca you can also take the road to go to Sillustani ruins, an old pre Inca cementery, located in front of Lake Umayo, then you have to go back to the main road and continue to Puno. From Sillustani is about 19 Km. to Puno.

Puno is a city with about 119,000 people and located at 3800 meters high. The main attraction here is Titicaca Lake, with 70 Km. wide and 165 Km long, here you can visit the islands Uros, Taquile and Amantani and see the local communities. Carnaval is a big party in Puno, they have thousands of dancers and musicians on the streets, this is on February and it´s called Virgen de la Candelaria festival. 

Overlanding: Arequipa to Puno.

Distance: 311 Km.

Hours driving: 6.

Good roads.

A route with great landscapes, lakes, mountains and flamingos.

You have to leave Arequipa city (2400 mts. high) and take the road to Yura, after 2 hours the road splits and you have to go via right on Juliaca sign (it´s 3 more hours to Juliaca). On the first part of this road you will see some rock formations and lakes with flamingos. After about 1 hr. you will get to Lagunillas lake (4174 mts. high) where you can stop to use the toilet or prepare lunch. This stop has a nice view of the lake and huge mountains.

After this you will continue driving until get to Juliaca , this is not the nicest city and the roads are really bad. You have to drive through Juliaca and take the  main road to Puno city, this will take just 1 hr. (49 Km. good road). When you get to Puno (3800 mts. high)  you will have a nice vew of Titicaca lake. Puno has lots of hotels and restaurants close to the main square. The main street is called Lima street, here you can find restaurants, shops, atm´s and tourist offices.